Like other Sikh religious sites in India, the Golden Temple stands there in simple
majesty, the gilded splendor of its paneling, dome and minarets shining in the
morning light, silhouetted softly in the water and etched gently across the city
escape. For the Sikh community the Harmandir Sahib Gurdwara Golden Temple is the
final spiritual "vision," journey's end or beginning and, for every
other community too, it is a shrine to be visited.
The Golden Temple in Amritsar is the most exalted of all Sikh shrines, drawing
pilgrims from near and far fore centuries. The temple's story began some four
centuries ago when the third Sikh Guru Amar Das asked Guru Ram Das (who succeeded
him) to build a central place for the congregation of the Sikhs. Guru Arjan Dev
completed the work started by Guru Ram Das in the 16th century. The gurdwara has
four entrance doors, called deoris, in all four directions-symbolic of the new
faith that made no distinction between caste and creed. People could enter and
bow in any direction they preferred.
As one descends into the temple (unlike most temples, here one actually descends
as the structure is built below the level of the surrounding area), one is confronted
by the stunningly beautiful sanctum sanctorum glimmering in the water of the holy
tank that is flanked on all four sides by spotlessly clean marble walkways and
pavements.
The main structure rises from the center of the sacred pool and is approached
by a long causeway. The 52-meter, square-based Hari Mandir stands on a square
platform, its lower parts marble, and its upper portion fully covered with plates
of gilded copper. In the interior, on the ground, the Guru Granth Sahib (holy
book of the Sikhs) is placed under a jewel-studded canopy. On the first floor
is a small pavilion called the Shish Mahal (mirror room). It is ornamented with
pieces of mirrors inlaid in the ceiling and walls. Above is another smaller pavilion.
Exquisite murals adorn the walls of the pavilions, but other than that, the emphasis
is on simplicity.
Situated at the other end of the causeway connected to the Harmandir Sahib is
the Akal Takht. Literally, it means the eternal throne and its building opposite
the temple has a significance. While the temple stands for the spiritual guidance,
the Akal Takht symbolizes the dispensing of justice and temporal activities. During
the day, the Guru Granth Sahib is kept in the temple and at night at the Akal
Takht. Traditionally all Sikh warriors sought blessings here before going for
war.
As it has done for several centuries, the temple mirrors many images that are
dear to the devout. One sees the beautiful golden dome shimmering in the water.
One sees thousands of devotees praying and kneeling before the holy book. One
sees them touch the holy water and pour it over their foreheads. One sees people
streaming into the langar hall to partake of the common meal served lovingly to
all. Forming a soothing and beautiful soundtrack to all these activities is the
continuous kirtan (devotional) recitation that has provided solace to so many.
If you take a short walk around the Golden Temple, you can visit several other
Gurdwaras that trace their links with the Gurus. Gurdwara Baba Atal Sahib and
the Shahidi martyr's shrine are important religious centers, each with its own
history. Amritsar played a pivotal role in India's quest for independence, and
no national monument has more significance than Jalianwala Bagh, a solemn, grim
reminder of one of the bloodiest chapters of India's freedom movement.
The 2000 Indians killed and wounded here in the indiscriminate firing by the British
on Baisakhi in 1919 was carnage that had nationwide ramifications, shaking and
enraging the whole country. Jalianwala Bagh commemorates the martyrs, keeping
the tragic episode in its historical context. Today, one finds a small gallery
with photos of key personalities involved, the well into which the crowds jumped
to escape the murderous hail of bullets and a simple memorial at the site that
shaped India's destiny.
Jalianwala Bagh:
Sited near the Golden Temple, it bears testimony to the disaster called Jallianwala
Bagh Massacre at the time of the rule of the British Raj. A congregation, attended
by several Punjabis on the occasion of Baisakhi (New Year) celebrations on 13
April 1919 was set on fire by General Dyer. Till date it serves as one of the
greatest tourist attractions in Amritsar.
Durgiana Mandir:
Located close to the Golden Temple, this temple, modeled in the style of the Golden
Temple, is dedicated to the Hindu goddess Durga. However, it also offers prayers
to deities of Lakshmi and Narayana. Believed to have been built in the 16th century
AD, the temple stands in the center of a lake.
Baba Atal Rai Tower:
Situated not far from the main town, Baba Atal Rai Tower is believed to have been
the place where Guru Har Gobind died. Christened after the son of Guru Har Gobind,
this nine-storey building gives you a panoramic view from the top. The first floor
of the tower preserves some of the trinkets that bear associations to Guru Nanaks
life and his teachings.
Wagah Border:
Literally defining the Indo-Pakistan border, Wagah is just 28 km from the main
town of Amritsar. The change of guards ceremony at sunset draws a
good many spectators.